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Supplies and Basic Care
 
I am often told that "My grandparents did not do all of this for their chickens" This may be why....farm facts of life, years ago rural families (perhaps even your own grandparents) did not have the Internet, nor credit cards and avian "hotlines" to call in for medical care. Because when their chickens became ill, they culled the weak and kept the strong. They simply bred more chickens to replace the damaged, lost or ill chickens in their flocks. In those days, losing chickens was just part of farm life.
 
 

 

  •  Diatomaceous Earth also known as diatomite or kieselgur, powder for dust bathing starting at 1st week of age... sprinkle on chicks until they discover bathing bowl themselves. To prevent mites  
  • Organic Probiotics Must have! for chickens health. Breathing mist, drinking water and in cleaning coop. Natural bacteria to remove pathogens and disease causing germs in your chickens coop.  
  • Barn Lime (granulated) or "Stall Dri" for cleaner smelling coops. Destroys odor and decays wastes.

  • SULMET- (or Corrid) to prevent Cocci.. which can be fatal if left untreated. Treat all chicks as a preventive with a very mild dose during cold wet weather. Do NOT over medicate baby chicks!

  • Wazine to prevent worms 2 or 3 times annually.

  • Vitamines and Supplements Its IMPORTANT to have vitamine A and supplements in water to boost immune system
  • Apple Cider Vinegar - to keep gut free from parasites (not needed if you use probiotics)
  • Fresh Garlic (Jar kind is fine) and/or oregano (not needed if you use probiotics)
  • Antibiotics A must have LG-50 (click this link for chicks) for MG or CRD  And Tylan for adult chickens. Liquid or injectible. Poultry are very prone to MG and CRD this and it is curable. (not needed if you use probiotics)
  • Order Tylan or LS-50 This will cure CRD and MG and Corzya.. No worries.. Its easier than it sounds.. Randall Burkey is a great place to shop and they deliver overnight most times UPS. (not needed if you use probiotics)
  • Rat Bait Just One Bite Rat Bait- a MUST put in sealed plastic containers and cut a hole the size of quarter.. kids and pets cant eat the bait. Place in areas surrounding coop to kill rats.

  • Moth Balls sprinkled around or put in containers MIGHT (NOT FOR SURE) deter snakes be sure pets and kids will not ingest.  

  • Poo Chart To check your chickens health make sure to view the droppings. Your chickens "poo" can tell you what might be wrong. "POO CHART" WARNING GRAPHIC 

  • Blue Kote - “anti pecking ointment” if you notice chickens pecking and see blood... add this ointment immediately to prevent more serious injury. Chickens can and will peck each other to death, you may have to seclude injured poultry until healed.

  • Marek's Disease- If your chickens are breathing, they have been exposed to Marek's. All of the chickens at Blue Star have been vaccinated for Marek's disease. 

  • Chickens should eat about 20% protein in diet. This can include pellets, crumbles some grains, fruits, vegetables, alfalfa hay, fresh grains and stalks, grasses and weeds. Also add wood mulch from trees to coop bedding (not store bought) for a good source of bugs. And even a small amount of cooked or raw meat. Yogurt is good for the digestion and can be included in diet as well.

  • Be sure to add about to cup of Apple Cider Vinegar per gallon of water 2 times per month to reduce or eliminate parasites (round worms) in digestive tract. In addition sliced fresh peppers cayenne jalapeno as well can be added to water for same effect. Add Garlic each week to water for really healthy chickens

  • Be sure to offer a “dust bath” or a pan filled with Diatomeaceous Earth even in some cases "Sevin Dust" works as well. This will eliminate the mites that harm chickens and prevent them from laying eggs. In some cases, mites can cause death.

  • Wazine wormer (at feed stores) should be used 2 or 3 times per year and is 1 ounce per gallon of water. Be sure to read the directions per age of your chickens

  • Get “Blue Kote” or "No Pick"(at feed stores) to prevent hens pecking each other if you see any open sores